Anticurl devices for garment parts



T. LOEW Ewa ANTICURL DEVICES FOR GARMENT PARTS Filed Dec; 1, 1955 sept,z, 1958 Po//vr ,j F 6. 5 A;

IN VEN TOR.

United States Patent ANTICURL DEVICES FDR GARMENT PARTS Theodore Loew,Stamford, Conn., assigner, by mesne assignments, to Endsdown Company,Inc., New York,

Application December 1, 1955, Serial No. 550,254

13 Claims. (Cl. 2-132) Anticurl devices have been described in UnitedStates Patents 2,601,035, 2,601,036, 2,601,037, 2,601,038, and Reissue23,617. In these patents is disclosed a stretched elastic member whichis attached to a thin flexible compression-resistant member in order toproduce a curling tendency to oppose the curling tendency exerted on thegarment part when worn. The object of the present invention is toprovide certain improvements in such anticurl devices.

It was customary to make the thin flexible compressionresistant memberdisclosed in the above patents in practice out of nylon in strips havinga width of approximately 1A; inch and a thickness of 0.0ll-0.012 of aninch. These anticurl strips were produced for fused collars in the edgeposition, as indicated in the 4drawings of U. S. Patent No. 2,601,035.Under these circumstances the nylon strip functioned satisfactorily.

In the edge position of a fused collar it was found necessary to userelatively high stresses in the rubber, e. g. heat-resistant garmentrubber having a thickness of approximately 0.030 inch and a width ofapproximately 1/8 inch. This rubber was given an average stretch of 75-100% and a maximum stretch near one end of the strip of approximatelydouble this average. Such high stresses were desired in order to producefully adequate anticurl power when the strip is in the edge position ofthe collar.

Satisfactory results were obtained in this way in fused collars, but itwas found that the nylon strip did not have suficient wet-strength underthese circumstances when placed in the edge position of a soft collar.That is to say, the structure of a fused collar along its edges givessupport to the anticurl strip when laundered, which made the use ofnylon satisfactory, but in a soft collar this support is lacking.

It has been found that if such anticurl strips are placed in a pocket inthe diagonal position (see Fig. 7 of Patent No.l 2,601,038), much lowerforces in the rubber can be used successfully. Thus, it has been foundthat using rubber of approximately 0.017 inch in thickness andapproximately 1/s inch in width and having an average stretch of fromISS-40% and a maximum stretch in the neighborhood of double thisaverage, adequate forces are obtained for preventing curling of softcollars when used in this diagonal position. But there is an objectionto the use of non-removable anticurl strips in the diagonal position inthat they tend to show through on the outer face of the collar.

One of the objects of the present invention is to improve the thinflexible compression-resistant member of the above combination of rubberand plastic,

Another object of the present invention is to reduce the tendency of theanticurl strip to show through on the outer face of the collar when thestrip is placed in the diagonal position.

The rst objective is achieved by using a compressionresistant plasticmaterial which has a tensile strength of at least 17,000 lbs. per squareinch, a tensile modulus kof ice at least 450,000 lbs. per square inch, amoisture absorption of approximately 0.3%, and a melting point of atleast 480 F. Such a material has a wet-strength which is far superior'tothat of nylon. Materials which meet these requirements are the plasticsold under the tradename Mylar and made by the DuPont Company, and alsoa plastic sold under the tradename Cronar and also sold yby 'the DuPontCompany. The material is used in strips having a thickness of 0.0075inch and a width in the neighborhood of 1A inch. The second of the aboveobjectives is achieved by arranging the plastic compressionresistantstrip so that it extends laterally at each of its free side edges beyondthe rubber strip which is attached to the compression-resistant strip bya distance equal to at least three times the thickness of the rubberstrip.

Reference may be made to the accompanying drawings in which:

Fig. l is a side elevation, Fig. 2 is a plan View, and Fig. 3 is an endview of an anticurl strip made according to the present invention andintended to be used in a diagonal position in a soft or fused collar.

Y Fig. 4 shows a collar having the anticurl strip of the .presentinvention located therein in a diagonal position.

',Fig. 5 is a cross sectional View taken along line 5-5 of Fig. 4 andshowing the pocket sewn to the back or inner ply, this pocket beingdesigned to contain the antiof the type used in garments, e. g., in thewaistband ofl shorts and pajama trousers. ln the embodiment shown, thisstrip in its unstretched condition is about s inch wide and about 0.017inch thick. The length of the rubber strip is chosen so that when it iscombined with the compression-resistant plastic strip by the stitches11, the

rubber strip Willhave an average stretch of approximately 35-50%,depending upon the fabric of the collar and the design of the collar, aswell as whether the collar is soft or fused. The stretch in the rubberstrip is non-uniform, the pattern of stretch depending again on theparticular use for which the anticurl device is designed, and Fig. 6diagrammatically illustrates one possible variation in the stretch alongthe length of a rubber strip.

The exible compression-resistant member consists of the` plastic knownas Mylar-or Cronar, as was pointed out above, and this ilexiblecompression-resistant strip has a width of approximately 1A; inch and athickness of 0.0075 inch. As is clearly indicated` in Fig. 3, the strip12 is grooved to a depth of approximately 0.003 inch to receive portionsof the stitches 11 in this groove, so that these stitches will not exendbeyond the bottom face of the strip 12, as viewed in Fig. 3. The rubberstrip is preferably sewn centrally along one face of thecompression-resistant strip 12, as indicated in Fig. 2, sothat the strip12 will extend at its free side edges beyond each side edge of therubber strip. In the illustrated example the strip 12 extends beyond therubber strip 11 on each side by approximately 1746 inch, where thestretch in the rubber Ys substantially zero, viz. at the ends in theparticular example illustrated, as is indicated in Fig. 6. The stretchis greater than this in other portions of the rubber where the rubberstrip is narrowed bythe Poisson effect due to the stretch in the rubber.The thickness of the rubber may varyfrom approximately 17 mils to 19mils. Thus, it Will be seen that the extension of the plastic strip 12beyond the rubber strip 11 on each side of the latter is greater thanthree ltimes the thickness of the rubber. It

has "been" found` that these proportions tend to minimize theshowing-through -of the strip as al whole. The reason for this isevident from Fig. 5 which is a sectional View of the collar portionfragmentarily indicated in Fig. 4.

In Fig. 4"the outer or facei'ply17 ofthe collar 18 is visible, and theanticurl strip located within the collar is' shown in dottedlines.Referring to Fig. 5, it will be seen that the increments by which thethickness of the collar increases and decreases are quite small. Thus,there is ay slight increase in the thickness ofthe collar where-thepocket material'lS is located. Then (neglectingthe'stitchforl the timebeing) there is a further increase' in thickness wherethe plastic12begins, and there is a finalincrease in thickness where the rubberbegins. vlt will'be noted from Fig. 5 that these increases-in-thicknessare veryslight'and furthermore are very gradual. Experimentshave shownthat if the width ofthe pocket is just large enough to receive theanticurl device, e'. g., f/gv inch between pocket stitches 21 for astrip: inch'widefthen vthis structure prevents pressure from beingapplied to the stitch which otherwise tends to show through,particularly if the collar isstarched. Furthermore, the edges of theplastic strip 12 tend to ex under heavy ironing pressureso as to makethe entire transition from normal collar thickness to maximum collarthickness at the center of the strip a gradual transi- 4 I collar plyand an interposed lining ply, means for opposing the tendency of acollar point to curl away from the body of the wearer, said meanscomprising a tlexible permanently compression-resistant elementincorporated in said collar located in the neighborhood of said collarpoint between said lining ply and said inner ply of said collar insubstantially fixed relation to said collar point, said element having atensile strength of at least 17,000 lbs. per square inch and a tensilemodulus of at least 450,000 lbs-per square inch, `and said elementvhaving a moisture absorption of approximately 0.3%.andhaving a meltingpoint of at least 480 F.; and an elastic stripshaped elementincorporated in said collar in Apermanenttion,v thereby minimizing thehighlights and showingthrough of the entire strip-and-pocket'structureon the faceor outer ply of the collar. The shapes which the collar takeswhen being pressed and when not being pressed are indicated in Figs.S'and 5A, respectively.

As is evident from Fig. 5, a lining ply 16 is located between the faceply 17 and the back ply 22 of the collar, and the pocket material 15 isstitched to the back ply 22 with the stitches 21, the pocket for theanticurl strip 1,0, 12 being located between the pocket material 15 andthe back ply 22 and between the rowsof stitches 21. Fig. 4 clearlyillustrates the diagonal position of the anticurl strip in the collar18.

I At the time that the present invention was first made, the plasticMylar was not available in thicknesses greater than 0.0075 inch and thisAthickness was not considered heavy enough for high tensions which werethen used for anticurl strips in the edge positions of collars,.although this thickness is heavy enough for the diagonal position, asdescribed above. Recently, however, the DuPont Company has madeavailableMylar in a. thickness of 0.010 inch. This heavier material canbe used for yanticurl strips in the edge position, where much greaterforces due tothe rubber are needed, and can also be used in wider formfor anticurl strips in girdles, brassieres, etc. The present inventionis not to be construed as limited to the specific quantitative orqualitative embodiments -described above.

I claim:

1.' In a collar'consisting of one or more fabric plies, means foropposing the tendency of a collar point to curl away from the body ofthe wearer,- said means comprising a flexible permanentlycompression-resistant element located in the neighborhood of said collarpoint in substantially `fixed* relation to said collar point, saidelement having atensile strength of at least 17,000 lbs. per square inchand a tensile modulus of at least 450,000 lbs.' per square inch, andsaid element having a moisture absorption of approximately .0.3% and amelting point of atleast 480 F., and an `elastic strip-shaped elementincorporated in said collar in permanently stretched tensioncreatingcondition and secured in such condition to said flexible permanentlycompression-resistant element in the neighborhood.. of said collarpoint. extending at. least approximately toward the same and locatedbetween .said tlexible permanently compression-resistant `element andthe inner collar face.

2. In acollai includingan `onter'collar:1ply,'.an inner 1y stretchedtension-creating condition and secured in such condition to saidllexible permanently compressionresistant element in the neighborhood ofsaid collar point extending at least approximately toward the same andlocated between said compression-resistant elementand the inner collarply.

3. In an article of wearing apparel, means for opposing the tendency of'said wearing apparel to curl away from the body of the wearer along anedge of said wearing apparel, said means comprising a flexiblepermanently compression-resistant element located in the neighborhood ofsaid edge in substantially fixed relation to the same, said elementhaving a tensile strength of atleast 17,000 lbs. per square inch, atensile modulusof at least 450,000 lbs. per square inch, a moistureabsorption of approximately 0.3%, and a melting point of atleast 480 F.;and anV elastic strip-shaped element incorporated in said wearingapparel in permanently stretchedl tensioncreating condition and securedin such condition tosaid i' flexible permanently compression-resistantelement inthe neighborhood of said edge extending at least approximatelytoward the same and located between said exible permanentlycompression-resistant element and the inner faceof said wearing apparel.

4. ln an article of wearing apparel, means for opposing the ,tendency ofsaid wearing apparel to curl away from the body of the wearer along anedge of said Wearing apparel, said means comprising a flexiblepermanently compression-resistantA element located in the neighborhoodof said edge in substantially fixed relation to the same, said elementhaving a tensile strength of atleast 17,000 lbs. per square inch, atensile modulus of at least 450,000 lbs. per square inch, a moistureabsorption `of approximately 0.3%, and a melting point of at least' 480F.; and an elastomer strip incorporated in said wearing apparel inpermanently stretched tension-creating condition and secured in suchcondition tosaid flexible permanently `compression-resistant element inthe neighborhood of said edge extending at least approximately towardthe same and located between said llexible compression-resistant elementand the inner face of said wearing apparel.

5. A device for inducing a curling tendency in a desired direction in aportion of an articleA of apparel with which said -device is eventuallyassembled,v said device comprising, in combination, a thin exiblecompressionresistant element having a tensile strength of at least17,000 lbs. per square inch, a tensile modulus of at least 450,000 lbs.per square inch, a moisture absorptionf of approximately 0.3%, and amelting point of at least 480 Fa; and a stretched elastic element havinga tension varying along its length and fastened in suchstretched'tensioncreating condition to one face of said thin exiblecompression-resistant element, thus inducing different curvatures insaid thin llexible compression-resistant element along the lengththereof and hence inducing a curving tendency in a portion of an articleof wearing apparel with which the same is assembled, said curvingtendency varying along the length of said thin exiblecompressionresistant element and being in the direction ofthat face of`said thin flexible compression-resistant element to Whichthe saidelastic element is fastened.

6. Adevice for inducing a curving tendency in a desired direction in aportion of an article of apparel with Which the device is eventuallyassembled, said device comprising, in combination, a thin flexiblecompressionresistant strip-shaped element having a tensile strength ofat least 17,000 lbs, per square inch, a tensile modulus of at least450,000 lbs. per square inch, a moisure absorption of approximately0.3%, and a melting point of at least 480 F.; and a stretchedelastic-strip-shaped element having a tension varying along its lengthand fastened in such stretched tension-creating condition to one face ofsaid thin flexible compression-resistant strip-shaped element, thusinducing different curvatures in said thin flexiblecompression-resistant strip-shaped element along the length thereof andhence inducing a curving tendency in a portion of an article of wearingapparel with which the same is assembled, said curving tendency varyingalong the length of said thin flexible compression-resistantstrip-shaped element and being in the direction of that face of saidthin flexible compression-resistant stripshaped element to which saidstrip-shaped element is fastened.

7. An anticurl device comprising, in combination, a exiblecompression-resistant strip having a width of approximately 1A inch anda thickness of 0.0075 inch; and a rubber strip xed in stretchedcondition centrally to said compression-resistant strip and extendingalong o-ne face thereof, said rubber strip having an average stretch ofapproximately 35-50% and having in its unstretched condition a Width ofapproximately 1A; inch and a thickness of approximately 0.0017 inch, sothat said flexible compression-resistant strip has free side edgeportions which extend beyond saidrubber strip.

8. An anticurl device comprising, in combination, an elongatedcompression-resistant, flexible strip; a rubber strip xed in stretchedcondition centrally along one face of said compression-resistant strip,said latter strip eX- tending at each of its side edge portions beyondsaid rubber strip by a distance which is greater than three times thethickness of the rubber strip.

9. An anticurl device comprising, in combination, a flexiblecompression-resistant strip having a Width of approximately 1A inch; andan elongated rubber strip fixed centrally to said compression-resistantstrip and extending along a face thereof, said rubber strip having inits unstretched condition a Width of approximately 1,1; inch and beingfixed in stretched condition to said compression-resistant strip.

10. An anticurl device comprising, in combination, a flexiblecompression-resistant strip having a Width of approximately 1A inch; andan elongated rubber strip fixed centrally to said compression-resistantstrip and extending along a face thereof, said rubber strip having inits unstretched condition a Width of approximately 1/s inch and beingfixed in stretched condition to said compressionresistant strip, saidlatter strip extending at each of its side edge portions beyond saidrubber strip by a distance which is greater than three times thethickness of the rubber strip.

11. An anticurl device comprising, in combination, a flexiblecompression-resistant strip having a tensile strength of at least 17,000lbs. per square inch, a tensile modulus of at least 450,000 lbs. persquare inch, a moisture absorption of approximately 0.3%, and a meltingpoint of at least 480 F.; and a rubber strip fixed in stretchedcondition centrally to said compression-resistant strip and extendingalong one face thereof, said compression-resistant strip extending ateach of its side edge portions beyond said rubber strip by a distancewhich is greater than three times the thickness of said rubber strip.

12. An anticurl device comprising, in combination, a flexiblecompression-resistant strip having a Width of approximately 1A inch anda thickness of approximately 0.0075 inch, said strip having a tensilestrength of at least 17,000 lbs. per square inch, a tensile modulus ofat least 450,000 lbs. per square inch, a moisture absorption ofapproximately 0.3%, and a melting point of at least 480 F.; and anelongated rubber strip fixed centrally to said compression-resistantstrip and extending along a face thereof, said rubber strip being xed tosaid compressionresistant strip with an average stretch of approximately35-50%, and said rubber strip having in its unstretched condition awidth of approximately l inch and a thickness of approximately 0.0017inch.

13. An elongated anticurl device comprising, in combination, a exible,compression-resistant strip having a width of approximately 1A inch andbeing formed in one of its faces with a substantially centrallongitudinal groove; and an elongated rubber strip stitched centrally tothe other of said faces of said compression-resistant strip andextending along said other face thereof, said rubber strip having in itsunstretched condition a width of approximately l; inch and beingstitched in stretched condition to said compression-resistant strip, thestitching which connects said strips together being located in part insaid groove of said one face of said compression-resistant strip.

References Cited in the le of this patent UNITED STATES PATENTS 328,207Fulmer Oct. 13, 1885 2,601,035 Liebowitz lune 17, 1952 2,601,036Liebowitz June 17, 1952 2,601,038 Liebowitz lune 17, 1952

